We arrived at 4:30 (am) to Åland's capital Mariehamn after a 9 hour boat ride from Helsinki.
First night we stayed in a hostel type of accommodation nearby the harbour, well we spent rather just a morning in the hostel as we checked in around 4:45 and out at 11:04. It was called Gästhem Kronan, we had a shared toilet and a shower .. incl very simple breakfast.. all that for 77 euros per room, quite pricy for what we got. When you think that with 100 euros you can book a four start hotel in many destinations.
Monday, the first day of biking started smoothly despite only 3-4 hrs of sleep. Biked in the middle of the main island an enjoyed forest and field views.. stopped by in a strange thai restaurant for a drink, soft drink just to be precise. Then the rain started and I got finally to test my rain gear (shield jacket and trousers), had them on me until i felt like i was in a sauna on a bicycle. . In other words i wore them until Kasterholm. There we took pics of the ruins of the castle and stopped in Smakby restaurant for a tasty late lunch, that is by the way run by a celebrity chef. Well sort of a celebrity chef, at least in Swedish speaking Finland he is famous as he has been on the most popular Finnish-Swedish tv show, Strömsö.. Actually even Finnish speaking Finns like to watch that one.
From Smakby we biked the rest ten km with tummies full of tasty Cod and mashand vegetables until we reached to a cottage and camping site called Putte's Camping next to Bomarsund ruins (a fortress built by Russians when Finland was under Russian rule at the end of 19th century). Putte's camping didn't impress us much with their simple cabins that weren't seen any renovation since 1970s or so. Shared toilets and showers had a beautiful mustard yellow colour and the cafe/restaurant was as cosy as a school cantine. Service was friendly and i was happy to communicate in Swedish with the sweet old lady who was running the place. The biggest minus i would give to yhis place from the fee that you had to pay to get hot water (1€ / 4 min), as you already pay 75 euros for a extemely simple accommodation at least the shower should be free.
On Tuesday, after a 13 hr sleep and a little breakfast at our cabin terrace we head towards a ferry that took us to Kumlinge island and to our next cabin. The ferry was quite big with even a little cafe. I enjoyed a nordic style doghnut with Finnish style coffee there, which means water with a taste of coffee.
Once arrived to the Kumlige island we biked few kilometers to the Kumlinge village where i thought to withrdaw some cash as noticed a bank. This bank though didn't have a cash machine, but i had to step in and withdraw money from the clerk. Not sure if i have ever done that in my life. Since i didn't remember my bank account number by heart the clerk had to call somewhere to get it, but in the end i managed to get some cash.
After being loaded with cash we started to head towards the cabin site, at least we thought so. Then on the way we stopped by a pretty little and very old church. Took a peak inside as well and almost crashed to a local pensioners' tea party. I left them alone, but my friend decided to film a bit of their violin artist, once shr was done it was time to carry on the journey. . The road changed from asphalt into dirt, and got smaller and smaller until we were on someone's yard, then we had a sort hunch that we have biked a bit wrong. Then we returned back to the village centre and took a correct turn from the bank, and shortly we reached at the cabin site.
As it's off season there're not many fellow passangers and it also gives an idea how quiet it must be here during the winter time. To our disappointment a really nice looking boat harbour cafe was closed next to the cabin site. Also we had to choose the best and the only restaurant in the neighbourhood for dinner, luckily the dish was tasty, thanks to very fresh local fish i ordered. They have also a sauna for rent here, and as we have pretty much nothing to do here we also booked a sauna for an hour. To sum up Tuesday; we biked about 12 km, took a ferry, ate and went to the sauna. Again the bike route went in the middle of forests and fields, hence not so much sea views until we reached this cabin site that is by the sea.
Tomorrow we'll carry on to another island, I'm hoping to see more of that Eastern Sea!
P.s. more pics will follow.
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